Dining

The Tasty Treasures of Hanoi’s Old Quarter: Crispy Fried Tofu and Rice Noodle Delights

Bun dau mam tom is a beloved dish in Hanoi, and its fame has spread far and wide, attracting many visitors, both local and foreign. This mouthwatering delicacy, consisting of fermented shrimp paste, crispy fried tofu, and rice noodles, has become a signature of Hanoi's vibrant culinary scene.

Administrator

11 December, 2024

I ventured to Trung Huong Shop, nestled in the quaint Phat Loc Lane of Hanoi’s historic Old Quarter, specifically in Hang Buom Ward, Hoan Kiem District. This eatery is renowned for its delicious bun dau mam tom, a traditional dish of rice noodles, fried tofu, and shrimp paste.

To my dismay, the shop was closed. I learned from the neighbors that the owner had sold the property, relocated, and ceased serving this beloved dish. A wave of nostalgia washed over me as I reflected on the culinary legacy this brand represented within the confines of Hanoi’s Old Quarter.

Captivating the Essence of Hanoi’s Culinary Heritage

Picture this—on a bamboo tray lined with fresh banana leaves, you’ll find a delightful arrangement. Pure white rice noodles contrast with golden fried tofu, pink slices of pork leg, and vibrant green mint leaves. At the heart of this culinary masterpiece sits a bowl of dark purple shrimp paste, tying all the flavors and textures together in a harmonious dance that epitomizes the essence of Hanoi’s culinary heritage.

Bun dau mam tom, a delectable dish served at Huong shop, located at 55 Phat Loc Lane, Hanoi. Photo: Ngo Minh/The Hanoi Times, captures the essence of this culinary masterpiece.

For those who have had the pleasure of tasting it, bun dau mam tom is an unforgettable culinary experience. While it may be a common street food in Hanoi, its unique combination of flavors and textures leaves a lasting impression.

During the 90s, beef noodle soup was likely considered a luxurious treat for many residents of the capital, while bun dau mam tom was a more accessible and affordable option. I vividly recall a time when a bowl of bun dau cost a mere VND10,000-12,000 (approximately US$0.5), while a bowl of pho would set you back twice as much.

Bun dau mam tom, as the name so aptly suggests, is a harmonious marriage of rice noodles, tofu, and shrimp paste. Each ingredient plays a pivotal role in creating the dish’s signature flavor and texture.

Vinh Quyen, a seasoned journalist and connoisseur of Hanoi’s cuisine, offers his insight: “While bun dau mam tom may appear simple when compared to other vermicelli dishes in Hanoi, crafting a truly delicious bun dau meal is an art. The secret to this dish’s success lies in two key components: tofu and shrimp paste.”

The renowned shrimp paste from Thanh Hoa province takes center stage as the soul of this dish. Photo: Ngo Minh/The Hanoi Times captures the essence of this flavorful ingredient.

In modern-day Hanoi, it’s a rare find to stumble upon a bun dau restaurant that solely serves noodles with fried tofu. To cater to their diners’ diverse tastes, most establishments have started adding various toppings, such as fried spring rolls, cha com (a delectable sausage made with young sticky rice), boiled meat, and more. These additions are typically presented on a round plastic plate or a bamboo tray lined with banana leaves, with the bowl of aromatic shrimp paste taking pride of place in the center. For those with dietary restrictions or preferences, the chef is happy to substitute the shrimp paste with a bowl of fish sauce, skillfully blended with sour, spicy, salty, and sweet flavors to tantalize the taste buds.

Bun dau mam tom: A Dish That Transcends Borders

Over the years, Northern Vietnam has witnessed a wave of migration, with its residents spreading their wings to various parts of the world. Along with their suitcases, they also carried the flavors and traditions of their homeland, including the beloved bun dau mam tom. Today, this dish is not only enjoyed in the southern provinces of Vietnam but has also made its way abroad, reaching new palates and captivating hearts worldwide.

Southerners have embraced bun dau mam tom with the same fervor as Northerners cherish banh trang tron, a ubiquitous dish in the south. It has become a beloved part of their culinary landscape, much like bun bo hue (beef noodles from Hue) and crab noodle soup.

A 20-year-old bun dau establishment on Tran Hung Dao Street in Hoan Kiem District showcases the dish’s evolution. While fried tofu remains a staple, bun dau is now often served with a variety of toppings, including pork, spring rolls, and sausage with young sticky rice. Photo: Ngo Minh/The Hanoi Times captures this delicious evolution.

As bun dau mam tom travels to different regions, it adapts to suit local tastes and preferences. In southern provinces like Kien Giang, Can Tho, An Giang, and Ho Chi Minh City, you’ll find renowned bun dau shops that have put their unique spin on this classic dish.

The reach of this delicacy knows no bounds, as it has even made its way to the bustling streets of Manhattan in the heart of the United States. Mam, a Vietnamese-style bun dau mam tom restaurant founded by the husband-and-wife duo, Nhung Dao and Jerald Head, has garnered attention from American media and social media influencers alike. Their restaurant, established in September 2020, offers diners a taste of Vietnam right on the sidewalk, with green plastic tables and chairs imported from Vietnam, creating an authentic ambiance.

The soul of Mam’s bun dau mam tom lies in the shrimp paste imported from Thanh Hoa province, Nhung Dao’s hometown. Diners are invited to add their own twist to the sauce by mixing in lemons, kumquats, and chili peppers, creating a bubbling concoction of flavors. The dish is presented on a bamboo tray lined with banana leaves, evoking a sense of dining in Vietnam. The only reminder that you’re in the heart of Manhattan is the dollar sign on the check; everything else about Mam transports you to the vibrant streets of Vietnam.

For Nhung Dao, the restaurant’s name, Mam, is a labor of love and a tribute to her roots. She hopes that just as her hometown is synonymous with its memorable fish sauce and shrimp paste, the restaurant will leave an indelible mark on the culinary landscape of its new home.

“At Mam, we strive to offer our customers a diverse range of Vietnamese dishes, not just bun dau, shares Nhung Dao. “Who knows, maybe one day, Mam will become a household name, synonymous with Vietnamese cuisine, and this little corner of Manhattan will be affectionately known as Little Vietnam.”