During a visit to Vietnam in late 2023, Nvidia CEO Jensen Huang was treated to a culinary delight: a taste of Mrs. Am’s bun thang. This traditional Vietnamese dish, a type of mixed-ingredient vermicelli soup, left a lasting impression on the billionaire, who declared it the “best breakfast ever” after indulging in two bowls accompanied by two cups of iced black coffee.
A Signature Taste of Hanoi
| Mrs. Am’s bun thang presented in a colorful bowl. Photo: Doan Nhat Anh |
The story of this delectable dish goes back to February 27, 2019, when the renowned Vuon Am Thuc (Culinary Garden Restaurant) on Cua Nam Street temporarily closed its doors. Owner and chef Doan Van Lai was busy preparing her specialty, Mrs. Am’s bun thang, at the Hanoi Food Court during the summit between North Korea and the United States in Hanoi. The event attracted 3,500 international and local reporters, and Lai’s restaurant was one of the traditional food counters showcasing Hanoi’s culinary delights.
Lai’s bun thang stood out among the offerings. After serving approximately 3,000 bowls in two days, his counter earned the reputation of serving the “top-class bun thang.” The dish even garnered attention from international news channels.
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Nvidia CEO Jensen Huang savors Mrs. Am’s Bun Thang during his trip to Vietnam in 2023. Photo: Doan Nhat Anh |
Fast forward to 2023, and Jensen Huang himself experienced the magic of Mrs. Am’s bun thang. Arriving at the Vuon Am Thuc restaurant in a convoy of luxury cars, the CEO of the $3.44 trillion technology giant and the tenth richest person in the world was about to taste a piece of Hanoi’s culinary history.
After savoring two bowls of the noodle soup and two cups of black iced coffee, Jensen Huang proclaimed that he had never tasted such a delicious breakfast during his global travels. This memorable endorsement came from a man who had dined at tables around the world.
A Legacy of Flavor
According to Lai, the legacy of Mrs. Am’s bun thang stretches back to 1888 when his grandmother, Le Thi Tho (alias Le Thi Hai), opened a bun thang stall in the old Dong Xuan market. The business was later passed down to her daughter and Lai’s mother, Dam Thi Am.
Over the years, the humble stall has attracted a diverse range of customers, including Tran Duy Hung, the former Chairman of the Hanoi Administrative Committee (Mayor). Like any other customer, Hung patiently waited in line for his turn. Many customers joked, “You’re not from the capital if you haven’t eaten Mrs. Am’s bun thang.”
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The artful presentation of Mrs. Am’s Bun thang and its carefully selected ingredients. Photo: Doan Nhat Anh |
The late writer Bang Son, a renowned authority on Hanoi cuisine, included Mrs. Am’s bun thang in his guide to the city’s food. He wrote about couples who enjoyed the dish in their youth and continued the tradition even as their hair turned gray, always seeking out Mrs. Am’s stall in Dong Xuan Market.
When Lai relocated the restaurant to Cua Nam Street, it gained a new following among overseas Vietnamese diners. One such patron was an octogenarian who had lived abroad for 30 years. Upon returning to Vietnam, he made a beeline for Dong Xuan Market in search of Mrs. Am’s bun thang. After learning of the restaurant’s new location, he walked from Dong Xuan to Cua Nam to satisfy his craving. The taste of the bun thang transported him back to the flavors of his youth, and he expressed his satisfaction at having found the dish he had missed for so long.
A Culinary Masterpiece from Hanoi
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The dish presents a delicate balance of savory and refreshing flavors. Photo: An Vat Ha Noi Page |
As its name suggests, bun thang combines bun (rice noodles) and thang, a Sino-Vietnamese word for “soup” or a mixture of Oriental medicinal herbs. The heart and soul of this dish is the broth, carefully simmered from pork and chicken bones. Up to 12 ingredients are added to the broth, including boneless chicken, dried shrimp, pork bologna, fried egg, shiitake mushrooms, and fresh herbs.
The result is a clear, subtly sweet broth without a hint of fishiness. The dish is typically garnished with lime and chili, creating a harmonious blend of flavors that has made it a favorite among locals and visitors to Hanoi alike. It’s a comforting meal that is now harder to find, even in Vietnam’s capital, compared to other dishes like banh cuon and pho bo.
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