The Art of Long Coc

Long Coc had always captivated me with its serene beauty, and I often found myself staring at photos of its lush tea hills and misty mountains. The rolling hills, with their serpentine silhouette, resembled a dragon, giving the place its name, Long Coc – Dragon Cave. The skies lit up with warm colors at dawn and dusk, complementing the deep green acres below.

The Long Coc Tea Hills are a significant source of tea cultivation in Phu Tho province, being the fourth largest tea plantation in Vietnam. However, in recent years, this remote farmland has gained international recognition thanks to the stunning photographs captured by talented Vietnamese artists.

In 2019, Nguyen Phuc Thanh received acclaim at the Sony World Photography Awards for his iconic shot of Long Coc’s horizon. This was followed by Bui Viet Duc’s silver prize at the Smile World Photography Awards in 2021 for his heavenly depiction of Long Coc at morning light.

Indian photographer Prabu Mohan, who began his career in Vietnam’s wilds, is an avid admirer of Long Coc and offered me valuable travel advice. “Bong Long Coc Tea Hill before sunrise is ideal for stargazing if you get a clear night,” he suggested. “It’s generally safe, and the homestays are accommodating. I’ve camped here numerous times. For the sunset spot, you can drive up on a motorbike, but the road gets rough in the last two kilometers.”

With Long Coc’s growing reputation as a photographer’s paradise, I knew I had to experience it for myself. Fortunately, the allure of Long Coc’s beauty enticed a few friends to join me on this adventure, despite the three-hour drive from Hanoi.

A bird’s-eye view of Long Coc. Photo by Tony Luan.

As we rode our motorbikes towards Long Coc, we were awe-struck by the scenery. “Wow, it looks like The Shire!” one of us exclaimed. “No, it’s more like Dragon Ball Z!” another friend chimed in. “I think it resembles a level from Super Mario!” We all agreed that it looked surreal, like something out of this world.

Our first glimpse of Long Coc. Photo by Glen MacDonald.

The stunning greenery of Long Coc. Photo by Glen MacDonald.

Capturing the beauty of a Long Coc sunset. Photo by Glen MacDonald.

As expected, we weren’t the only ones drawn to Long Coc during the Golden Hour. The valley echoed with children’s laughter as mothers posed for photos taken by their proud husbands. Some Vietnamese uncles, seemingly more fascinated by Western tourists than the view, asked us to pose for pictures with them. We happily obliged, capturing memories of ourselves amidst the undulating hills and the golden horizon.

Riding through the tea leaves. Photo by Glen MacDonald.

The breathtaking view of Long Coc. Photo by Glen MacDonald.

It was surreal to finally stand in a place that had enchanted me through photographs for so long. I felt honored to add my own snapshots to Long Coc’s magnificent photographic legacy, even though I was still learning how to use my camera properly.

As the golden hour drew to a close, we uncorked a bottle of Prosecco and toasted to our adventure on the open road. We then made our way to our homestay, a traditional wooden stilt house built next to an old Vietnamese farmhouse. The staff warmly welcomed us and provided a delicious banquet of local specialties, including pig’s ear, bamboo shoots, chicken, soup, and plenty of beer.

Enjoying the beauty of Long Coc. Photo by Glen MacDonald.

We spent the night chatting and left early the next morning without meeting the owner, Ha Van “Tony” Luan. Tony, despite his young age, has already made a name for himself as the owner of Long Coc’s first homestay. He is also a photographer with grand plans for developing Long Coc’s tourism potential.

In a post-trip interview, I learned more about Tony’s background and vision for Long Coc. Before venturing into tourism, Tony worked with his family in tea and wet rice cultivation, a common occupation in Long Coc. After finishing high school and working as a freelancer in Hanoi, he returned to Long Coc, driven by his dream of introducing his hometown to foreigners.

“I strongly desire to welcome foreign guests and facilitate cultural exchange while showcasing the stunning scenery, culture, and cuisine of my hometown,” Tony shared. “As a young individual with a passion for contributing to my native land, I recognize the development potential of Long Coc Tea Hill, so I boldly ventured into the tourism business.”

Since our interview, Tony has been dedicated to renovating his homestay to accommodate larger groups, anticipating the growing popularity of Long Coc. His homestay now boasts a spacious campus and a colorful flower garden, surrounded by local produce, reflecting the natural beauty and culture of his beloved hometown.

The refreshing mountain stream near Long Coc. Photo by Glen MacDonald.

Before bidding farewell to Long Coc, my friends and I took a refreshing dip in the mountain stream, with the tea hills still in view. We sat by the stream, soaking in the warm sun and enjoying our beers. Like Tony Luan and countless photographers before me, I had fallen in love with Long Coc.

Taking in the view of the tea hills. Photo by Glen MacDonald.

Only time will tell if Long Coc can compete with larger Vietnamese tourist spots like Sapa or Ha Long Bay. As an underdeveloped region, tourism is still a challenge for this tiny farm commune. However, as lovers of Long Coc know, it’s not the size that matters but the unique and captivating experiences it offers.