The Magic of Heart-Cooked Meals: A Malaysian Chef Shares His Family Flavors in Vietnam

A culinary masterpiece unfolds as the dish is elegantly presented on a metal plate lined with banana leaves. The plate is a vibrant canvas showcasing white rice, dried anchovies, roasted peanuts, fried chicken, crisp cucumber slices, and a bowl of spicy sambal chili sauce—a true feast for the senses.

Chef Daus, with his passion for culinary authenticity, elaborates on the dish’s origins: “While the classic nasi lemak is topped with eggs, cucumber, nuts, and anchovies, along with the indispensable sambal, I’ve added a twist with some fried chicken. Traditionally, it’s a chicken-free affair, but in modern-day Malaysia, chicken or even prawn options are commonplace. Some even indulge in a beef rendang twist.”

He continues, “The rice, cooked with coconut milk, adds a subtle sweetness that complements the spicy and savory elements beautifully.”

The story behind this delectable creation is as fascinating as its flavors. Chef Daus, a 27-year-old culinary master, opened Lesung, an ‘Authentic Malaysian Cuisine Restaurant,’ with friends in March 2024. His journey to this point is a testament to his dedication to his craft.

Daus first set foot in Vietnam in 2016 and returned in 2019 to visit his friend Tommy Tran, a fellow chef. His most recent return in 2022 was for a professional endeavor.

Prior to his current venture, Daus managed a private dining business in Malaysia. However, the opportunity to work in Vietnam presented itself when Tran invited him to join forces.

After spending a year and a half in Ho Chi Minh City, Daus found himself at a crossroads, contemplating whether to return to Malaysia or extend his stay. Vietnam’s people, culture, and cuisine had already woven their magic around him, and he found himself drawn to the country’s vibrant energy and rapid development.

“I witnessed incredible changes over a short period. The transformation of the city’s architecture and infrastructure, even the road network, was remarkable,” Daus remarked, highlighting the dynamic nature of his adopted home.

Inspired by the vibrant environment, Daus conceived the idea for Lesung, encouraged by a friend’s suggestion to introduce Malaysian cuisine to the city’s culinary landscape.

It took him around six months to bring his vision to life, and Lesung opened its doors earlier this year, much to the delight of food enthusiasts.

At Lesung, located at 72/1 Tran Quoc Toan Street in District 3, diners are transported to Malaysia through their taste buds. Signature dishes like roti jala with chicken curry, prawn otak-otak, beef ribs rendang, and sambal eggplant grace the menu, among other delights.

To ensure an authentic taste, ingredients like petai, asam keping, and belacan are sourced directly from Malaysia. Daus is committed to preserving the traditional flavors he grew up with, preparing dishes the way his grandmother and mother taught him.

A key element in the kitchen is a 150-year-old traditional stone mortar and pestle, passed down from his grandmother. The name “Lesung,” derived from the Malay word for ‘mortar and pestle,’ pays homage to this heritage.

“Using a mortar and pestle is a testament to the love and care our ancestors put into preparing meals,” Daus explained. “It’s a symbol of family gatherings and shared meals. At Lesung, I want guests to feel at home or like they’re visiting their grandparents.”

For Daus, the restaurant is his way of expressing gratitude to Vietnam for its warm embrace. By sharing a piece of his cultural heritage, he hopes to foster a deeper connection with the local community.

Lesung has already attracted a diverse clientele, including Singaporeans, Malaysians, and expatriates. Daus aims to increase local Vietnamese patronage from the current 20 percent to 50 percent, inviting them to embark on a culinary journey to Malaysia through his authentic dishes.

“Cooking with heart transcends cultural boundaries,” Daus asserted. “When you put love into your food, anyone can relate, regardless of their background or cuisine preferences.”

With his diverse culinary offerings, Daus is confident that Lesung has something to tantalize every taste bud.

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