Dining

Hanoi Pho: Elevating a Familiar Dish to a Cultural Legacy

Pho is not just a dish, it is an art form and a culinary masterpiece. An integral part of Hanoi's cultural heritage, this refined dish is a symphony of flavors and a true testament to the city's rich history. With its unique blend of spices and herbs, pho has become a national treasure, officially recognized as an intangible part of Vietnam's cultural heritage. It is a dish that truly encapsulates the essence of Vietnamese cuisine and the heart of its people.

Administrator

1 December, 2024

Master chef Nguyen Thi Van’s passion for Hanoi Pho is deeply rooted in her childhood memories. Growing up in Hanoi, Van fell in love with the iconic dish, and it left a lasting impression that inspired her to dedicate her life to sharing it with the world. This passion led her to create the Long Bich pho chain, a testament to her success in bringing the heartwarming taste of Vietnam to tables everywhere.

Van fondly recalls her parents taking her to a local pho shop to celebrate her good grades. “It was always a treat to enjoy a bowl of beef pho as a reward for doing well in school,” she reminisces. “Those memories are what fuel my love and passion for this dish.”

After getting married, Van began selling pho. It wasn’t always easy, but her determination and passion kept her going. “I faced many challenges along the way,” she admits, “but I always followed my heart. Now, I’m proud to have played a part in introducing the culinary culture of Hanoi to international food lovers.”

Van shared her story at a seminar hosted by the Hanoi Department of Culture and Sports and Kinh te & Do thi Newspaper on December 1, 2024. The event, titled “Preserving and Celebrating the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Hanoi Pho,” was a platform for experts and chefs to discuss the iconic dish of Hanoi rice noodles with beef or chicken.

Celebrating Hanoi’s Culinary Pride

The classic beef pho – a bowl of comfort and tradition. Photo courtesy of Suong Pho restaurant, a beloved Hanoi pho brand since 1930.

Vietnamese cuisine is a source of immense pride for its people, and Hanoi’s culinary delights stand as a symbol of the nation’s rich cultural and culinary heritage. The recognition of Hanoi Pho as an intangible cultural heritage by the Ministry of Culture, Sports, and Tourism is a testament to its fame, not just within Vietnam but also on the international stage.

One of the most renowned pho brands in Hanoi, “Pho Suong,” has a history that dates back to 1930. It all began with Nguyen Van Ty, a visionary street vendor who carried his pho stall from street to street, starting his day at dawn and returning in the evening to collect bowls and earnings. Though he faced financial struggles and eventually had to stop selling pho in 1956, his dedication and passion lived on.

Artisan Nguyen Thi Muoi, the current owner of Pho Suong, shared how her mother gathered the family in 1985 to continue the legacy. “For the past 40 years, my siblings and I have worked together to uphold the tradition. We named it ‘Pho Suong’ because we want our customers to feel ‘content’ – a Vietnamese word conveying happiness, pleasure, and satisfaction. It’s our promise that every bowl will be a delightful experience.”

A panel of food experts delved into the history and significance of Hanoi Pho at the seminar, captivating the audience with their insights.

While beef pho may be the more famous variant, chicken pho holds an equally special place in Hanoi’s culinary scene. Nguyen The Hieu, the third-generation owner of “Pho Chi,” a family business specializing in chicken pho, shared his family’s journey. “My grandfather started as a trader of pho spices, and it wasn’t until the French colonial period that he ventured into the pho business. Now, I’m proud to continue this family tradition with my son, who represents the fourth generation.”

According to experts, pho has humble beginnings as street food, with vendors carrying baskets filled with bowls, chopsticks, spices, and fresh ingredients. They believe that pho is a collective creation, shaped by the community and influenced by social, historical, and cultural factors. Le Thi Minh Ly, Vice President of the Vietnam Cultural Heritage Association, noted that while the exact origin of pho is still debated, its longevity and unique association with Hanoi are undeniable.

“Hanoi Pho has been recognized as ‘folk knowledge,’ a type of intangible cultural heritage,” Ly shared. “What sets it apart is the generations-old techniques and ingredients that have been meticulously preserved by dedicated chefs.”

These chefs, according to Ly, are not just practitioners of the craft but also guardians of tradition. They infuse creativity and individuality into their work while ensuring the essence of Hanoi Pho remains unchanged and uncommercialized. As a result, they have created unique brands that stand the test of time.

To be recognized as a heritage, Ly emphasized that pho shop owners must also embody the values of sharing, hospitality, and community. By committing to preserving the core values of Hanoi Pho and contributing to the city’s and nation’s development, they earn the State’s protection for their beloved dish.

“Hanoi Pho is now officially listed as a value that the State must protect,” she added.

Over the years, pho has evolved to include various delicious variations, including pho tron (a salad), pho tai (with rare beef), pho xot vang (with beef stew sauce), and pho rolls. It has found its way into upscale restaurants and hotels, and instant pho has been developed to meet the demands of busy foodies. Despite these modern adaptations, the traditional taste of Hanoi Pho remains intact.

Artisan Pham Thi Anh Tuyet, a national artisan who has cooked for international dignitaries and celebrities, shared, “When I serve pho to distinguished guests, they are always amazed by the harmonious blend of spices. Hanoi Pho has earned its reputation as a distinctive Vietnamese dish.”

Artisan Bui Thi Suong, originally from Ho Chi Minh City, often introduces Vietnamese cuisine during her overseas trips. “When we present pho in foreign markets like Europe and Australia, it’s a source of great pride that the dish is simply called by its Vietnamese name, Pho. It shows how much it has become a part of global culinary culture.”

According to Suong, while pho may have slight variations in different localities, the key ingredients, such as beef bones, beef, sa sung, cinnamon, and star anise, are non-negotiable. “Even in some countries, chefs add a creative twist with fruits, but as long as the traditional Vietnamese taste is preserved, these variations are welcomed, especially if they make the dish more delicious and appealing to local palates.”

Nguyen Thanh Loi, Editor-in-Chief of Kinh te & Do thi Newspaper, in his opening speech at the seminar, emphasized the importance of the event in the context of the Hanoi Culinary Culture Festival 2024. He highlighted the newspaper’s commitment to protecting and promoting Hanoi’s culinary essence, including Hanoi Pho, through dedicated sections and articles that celebrate the city’s cultural heritage.

Nguyen Thanh Loi, Editor-in-Chief, shares his thoughts on the importance of preserving Hanoi’s culinary heritage.

The seminar, attended by cultural management agencies, experts, artisans, and esteemed guests from Vietnam and abroad, aimed to deepen the understanding of Hanoi’s culinary treasures, with Hanoi Pho as the star attraction.

With the Hanoi Party Committee’s resolution in 2020 to develop the area’s culture, culinary heritage took center stage as a priority sector. Pham Thi Lan Anh, Head of the Cultural Heritage Department at Hanoi’s Department of Culture and Sports, expressed that the insights shared at the seminar would provide valuable guidance for protecting and promoting Hanoi Pho in the years to come.