Tucked away in an unassuming alley on Duong Ba Trac Street is a vibrant food market that comes to life during the holy month of Ramadan. This hidden gem, located in alley 157, welcomes locals and visitors alike to embark on a culinary journey through the rich and diverse flavors of Muslim cuisine.
As you step into the market, you’ll instantly feel a sense of community and hospitality. The air is filled with the enticing aromas of freshly prepared dishes, captivating your senses and inviting you to explore. This annual event has become a cherished tradition, drawing crowds eager to immerse themselves in a unique cultural experience.
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| Hanampệh, a traditional Muslim cake with a twist. Filled with dried shrimp, jicama, and wood ear mushrooms, it resembles the popular Vietnamese sizzling crepes, but with a unique flavor profile. Photo: Nguyen Hoang Tuan / Tuoi Tre |
Ramadan, the ninth month of the Muslim calendar, is a sacred time for the community. This year, it commenced on February 28 and concluded on March 30. Each day, from 1:00 pm until sunset, the market transforms into a bustling hub of activity, with vendors setting up stalls offering a myriad of mouthwatering treats.
Among the many delights, you’ll find the beloved gan cakes and hanampệh. The former, a creamy delight made with eggs, palm sugar, coconut milk, and a blend of spices, can be enjoyed steamed or baked. Hanampệh, on the other hand, is a unique creation, filled with dried shrimp, jicama, and wood ear mushrooms, offering a nuttier, richer flavor than its crepe-like counterpart.
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| A bustling scene at Hasan’s Muslim cake stall. The market is a popular destination for those seeking to indulge in traditional Ramadan treats. Photo: Nguyen Hoang Tuan / Tuoi Tre |
Saly, a familiar face at the market, and her husband run two popular stalls, offering a wide variety of cakes. Among their specialties are over ten types of cakes, including the aforementioned gan and hanampệh, priced at an affordable VND10,000 to VND15,000 (US$0.4–0.6) per item.
As you wander through the market, you’ll discover a treasure trove of delicious treats, including grilled mung bean cake, cassava cake, banana cake, and an array of traditional Muslim dishes. It’s a food lover’s paradise, and many visitors find themselves unable to resist taking a dozen treats home.
One of the busiest stalls is run by Hasan, a young vendor born in 1996, who works alongside his mother. Their stall is a haven for baked goods enthusiasts, offering wheat flour cakes, grilled banana treats, pumpkin cakes, and steamed gan cakes. Among their must-try offerings are plata, a South Indian-style flatbread, and saykaya, a fragrant Cham delicacy made with eggs, sugar, roasted peanuts, and ginger.
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| Plata, a unique flatbread with a South Indian twist. It is cooked with melted Indian butter and pairs perfectly with fish or goat curry. Photo: Nguyen Hoang Tuan / Tuoi Tre |
Hanamkang, a soft and fluffy dessert made with wheat flour, eggs, sugar, and coconut milk, is another crowd favorite. With their cakes priced at a bargain—VND5,000 ($0.2) for two pieces, Hasan and his mother work tirelessly to ensure a constant supply for their customers.
The market attracts hundreds of visitors each evening, including many non-Muslims eager to explore Islamic cuisine. Nguyen Thanh Tu, a student at Ho Chi Minh City Law University, is a regular visitor, making the most of this annual event. He recommends parking outside the alley and carrying small bills, as digital payment options are not available.
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| A bustling cake stall at the Ramadan market. The vendors’ passion for their cuisine and culture shines through as they share insights into their traditional dishes. Photo: Nguyen Hoang Tuan / Tuoi Tre |
“Every dish here has a distinct coconut-based richness that lingers,” shares Tu. “The vendors are incredibly friendly and passionate. They love to explain their dishes and share insights into their culture. It’s not just about the food; it’s about learning and experiencing something truly special.”
For those in Ho Chi Minh City during Ramadan, a visit to this market is a must. It’s more than just a food market; it’s a celebration of heritage, tradition, and community. Each bite tells a story of cultural richness and shared joy. With around 3,000 residents, the alley is home to the largest Islamic community among the 16 Muslim parishes in the city, as reported by VnExpress.
So, if you’re looking for an authentic culinary and cultural experience, make your way to alley 157 on Duong Ba Trac Street. Immerse yourself in the vibrant atmosphere, indulge in delicious treats, and embrace the warmth and hospitality of the local Muslim community.
