Exploring Hanoi’s quaint alleyways and indulging in its street food is a favorite pastime for locals and tourists alike.
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| One summer morning, our narrator, Phuong Nga, met a friend at a hidden cafe on Hang Gai Street. To get there, she navigated her motorcycle through a maze of alleyways and parked on the sidewalk. From there, she ventured into a dimly lit passage between two silk shops, revealing a secret oasis. |
The Cafe Pho Co, or Old Quarter Cafe, is a sanctuary nestled away from the bustling streets of Hanoi. As you step inside, you’ll discover a serene three-story coffee house with a beautiful courtyard. It feels like entering another world, a quiet retreat from the city’s hustle and bustle. The cafe’s interior exudes old-world charm, featuring dated wooden doors, inscribed boards, mossy side walls, and faded wooden shelves displaying porcelain treasures.
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| The narrow entrance of Cafe Pho Co, inviting patrons to discover its hidden charms. |
The cafe’s owner, a veteran in the coffee business, designed this space with the neighborhood in mind. Initially starting with just one floor, the cafe expanded over time to accommodate its growing popularity. The roof now offers a unique vantage point, providing a bird’s-eye view of the iconic Hoan Kiem Lake.
Both locals and travelers alike are drawn to this cafe, creating a diverse and international crowd. On weekends, the cafe buzzes with activity yet maintains its tranquil atmosphere. With limited seating for only a dozen people, it’s not uncommon for a “full house” sign to greet eager patrons.
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| Cozy corners and charming installations create a unique ambiance in the cafe’s courtyard. |
Giang Dinh, a former Hanoi resident now living in Ho Chi Minh City, reminisces about her visits to Cafe Pho Co with her mother: “The cafe encapsulates the inherent beauty of Hanoi, transporting me back to my childhood.”
The cafe attracts a diverse range of patrons, from young to middle-aged, local students to international tourists. Jessica, an Australian traveler, recounts her experience: “While wandering through Hanoi’s ancient streets, we stumbled upon a group of foreigners disappearing into a tiny alley. Intrigued, we followed and discovered this hidden gem. It’s as if you have to search for beauty, and when you find it, it’s all the more rewarding. We were captivated by the unique space, the careful decorations, and the delicious coffee—experiences we’ve never had back home or anywhere else.”
Hanoi is a food lover’s paradise, offering a myriad of delicious fast food options at any time of the day. Whether it’s a bowl of pho, a comforting porridge, vermicelli, bread, or a sweet soup, the city has something to satisfy every craving.
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| The famous “hand-carried” pho at an eatery in Hanoi’s Old Quarter. Diners hold their bowls due to limited space. |
In the heart of the Old Quarter, tucked away on Hang Trong Street, is a unique pho stall called Pho Bung. Every day at 3 pm, this tiny alleyway restaurant buzzes with activity. The name “Pho Bung” translates to “hand-carried,” reflecting the unique dining experience it offers. Due to the cramped space, there are no tables, and diners must hold their bowls in their hands as they enjoy their meal.
For Hanoians, pho is a versatile dish, suitable for breakfast, lunch, dinner, or even an afternoon snack. Pho Bung has earned a reputation for its slightly sweet broth, tender beef, and just the right amount of noodles.
According to the owner, the stall used to be located on the sidewalk at the intersection of Hang Trong and Hang Bong streets. However, when the city initiated a sidewalk clearance project, it found a new home on the second floor of a nearby house.
To dine at Pho Bung, guests must venture into an alleyway over five meters deep, just wide enough for two people to pass. They then follow a sign up a spiral staircase to the second floor. The owner shares that most of his customers are either locals or those who have heard about the place through word-of-mouth recommendations. The restaurant is busiest during office lunch breaks and after-work hours.
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| The quaint entrance to Qua Ngo Nho restaurant, a hidden gem in Hanoi’s culinary scene. |
Phuong Thao, a 27-year-old office worker from Cau Giay district, is a regular at Pho Bung. She appreciates the rustic atmosphere and the flavor of the pho, which suits her taste perfectly. “The most exciting part for me is enjoying a hot bowl of pho in an old room—a rare find in Hanoi these days,” she shares.
Another hidden gem, Qua Ngo Nho, or Small Alley Snack, is tucked away in a small alley next to the iconic Temple of Literature. This tiny restaurant, run by Thanh Tung for decades, is a well-kept secret among Hanoi’s food enthusiasts. Despite its lack of advertising, regulars flock to this spot for a taste of Hanoi’s authentic specialties.
Many customers don’t even need to place orders, as Tung already knows their preferences. He shares, “Many of my frequent customers don’t need to place any orders. I already know what they want, so they just have to wait a few minutes for their food.”
These small restaurants, hidden in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, hold a special allure for diners seeking a nostalgic experience and a taste of the traditional way of life. Phuong Hai, a culinary expert from Hanoi, explains that before the Doi Moi reforms in 1986, downtown Hanoi was bustling with shops and eateries. Living rooms of houses doubled as trading spaces due to limited real estate. Since then, dining in the depths of alleyways has become a cherished tradition for locals.
“When people eat in these alleyway restaurants, they not only savor Hanoi’s famous dishes but also immerse themselves in the vibrant, old-world charm of the city,” Hai adds.
Pho, the signature dish of Hanoi
“If you come to Hanoi, take a chance to eat Pho” has become the motto of almost every tourist travelling to the capital of Vietnam.
Banh gio – A Traditional Food from Hanoi
Though different from pho in many ways, there is one trait banh gio (pyramid-shaped rice dumpling) shares with this popular dish: Hanoians can eat each of them at any time of the day. A plate of steaming banh gio sold at a stall on a street corner can be a quick breakfast. It can also be a decent mid-afternoon snack.
Nem chua nuong captures the heart of Hanoians
As the capital of Vietnam with more than 1,000 years of history, Hanoi has a zest for food life that’s played out on the streets.
Bun oc, an authentic Hanoi dish
Bun oc (snail vermicelli soup) is an iconic dish of Hanoi which any visitor to the capital city should try. The clear, sweet and lightly sour broth mixed with the great greasy taste and crunchiness of the snails create a perfect harmony for the dish.
French newspaper suggests eight must-eat street foods in Hanoi
The Hanoitimes – Besides pho and egg coffee that have already made international headlines, what are the other dishes you must try when in Hanoi?
