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Discover the Serene Charm of Mu Cang Chai’s Off-Season Terraced Fields in Northern Vietnam

Note from the Editor:

7 January, 2025

This captivating travelogue was penned by Truong Anh Quoc, recounting his recent adventure with a friend to Mu Cang Chai, a captivating tourist destination nestled in Yen Bai Province, in Vietnam’s majestic northwestern mountains.

The story, originally in Vietnamese, has been translated and meticulously edited by Tuoi Tre News to ensure clarity, consistency, and a seamless reading experience for our English-speaking audience.

I was once told by a friend in Hanoi that northwestern Vietnam boasts a unique beauty in every season, and that any time of the year is ideal for a visit. Intrigued, my friend and I, hailing from different ends of the country, spontaneously decided to embark on a journey to this enchanting region.

We knew we had missed the famous golden rice season of October, but we were determined to explore the area during the straw season, a time when the fields take on a different, yet equally captivating allure.

The dry season casts a unique beauty over the terraced fields of Mu Cang Chai Town, Mu Cang Chai District, showcasing their intricate beauty.

With a sense of adventure, we opted to forgo travel guides and instead, hopped on a shared passenger bus, eager to explore whatever came our way.

There’s an undeniable thrill in traveling on a whim—every sight is fresh, new, and exciting. From Hanoi, we took the Hanoi-Lao Cai Expressway, and after a comfortable three-hour journey, we arrived in Yen Bai City, the provincial capital, without a hitch.

However, we soon realized that the rest of our journey would not be as straightforward. As it was not the tourist season, there were limited passenger buses connecting Yen Bai City to Mu Cang Chai.

The dry season reveals the intricate beauty of the terraced fields, showcasing their intricate design and the hard work of the local farmers.

Most visitors rely on shuttle buses arranged by accommodations, but thanks to modern technology and ride-sharing networks, we were able to secure a ride from Yen Bai City to Mu Cang Chai at a reasonable price with just a few taps on our smartphones.

As we navigated the winding and treacherous mountain roads, it became clear why there were no regular passenger buses on this route. Although carpooling was slightly more expensive, it proved to be a faster and safer option.

The dry season transforms the terraced fields into a golden tapestry, creating a stunning visual spectacle.

We were fortunate to be accompanied by a driver who was not only familiar with the roads but also understood the local culture and possessed a laid-back spirit, making the three of us feel more like companions than strangers. During a lunch stop in Nghia Lo Town, we experienced pouring rain, but our driver reassured us, saying, “Don’t worry, the weather here and up in the mountains is completely different.”

As we ascended towards Khau Pha Pass, one of the four legendary mountain passes of the northwest, the sky gradually cleared, and the clouds began to lift, unveiling a breathtaking horizon. Upon stepping out of the car, we encountered groups of people grilling corn and admiring the ever-shifting clouds.

The shifting clouds atop Khau Pha Pass create a mesmerizing spectacle, attracting visitors who come to admire the natural beauty.

It felt as though we were standing on an island, surrounded by a sea of white, billowing clouds. We continued our journey, cruising along the road, soaking in the stunning scenery and savoring the famous Tu Le sticky rice.

As the golden sun set, we arrived in Mu Cang Chai. We rented a motorbike and rode along the winding Nam Kim stream, the chilly evening air adding a sense of adventure to our exploration.

A Mong woman engrossed in knitting on a terraced field, a testament to the region’s rich cultural heritage.

That night, we found ourselves at the Nang rooftop café, watching as Mu Cang Chai slowly disappeared into the mist of a damp, quiet night. The town’s peaceful atmosphere, coupled with the sound of distant football players making their way home, created an unforgettable ambiance.

The next morning, while our driver was still asleep, my friend and I set off early to explore more of the town. Traveling during the off-season has its perks, as my friend noted—no parking fees, no crowded photo spots, and no pushy vendors. We had the freedom to wander through the terraced fields, inhaling the scent of dried straw, and even jump onto the rice fields, creating memories that would last a lifetime.

Dried corn, a staple crop in the region, adds a touch of golden beauty to the landscape during the dry season.

Our motorbike took us through villages and up steep hills, and soon we found ourselves in La Pan Tan. My friend was captivated by the locals, who exuded a sense of gentleness and happiness, their nature as straightforward as the bamboo of Na Hang Tua Chu Forest.

For generations, the Mong ethnic people have shaped these winding terraced fields, and now, the villagers tend to them with care, weeding and clearing the banks, bringing water from distant streams to irrigate their fields in preparation for the next crop. They understand the importance of preserving this precious heritage.

Pumpkins adorn the roofs during the dry season, adding a touch of color and life to the landscape.

While I, as a farmer myself, found solace in the scent of straw and the smooth pebble streams, my friend was drawn to the wild sunflowers. She compared their beauty to those in Da Lat, Lam Dong Province, and I made sure to slow down whenever we passed these stretches of wildflowers, knowing that she would want to leap off the motorbike to capture the perfect photo.

At the top of each high hill, we would pause, taking in the grand and peaceful landscape that stretched before us, feeling a sense of humility in the face of nature’s grandeur.

Truong Anh Quoc (C) poses with local ethnic people, capturing a moment of connection and cultural exchange.

These two rushed weekends were merely a preview, and I promised myself to return to Mu Cang Chai when I have more time to explore. Life is full of unexpected journeys, and when we embrace them with open hearts, every moment becomes a precious memory.

Although we have only visited Mu Cang Chai once, it left an indelible mark on us—much like the terraced fields that rise higher with each season, standing strong against the passage of time.