Dining

Pho Ganh: A Culinary Delight Unique to Hanoi

Pho, the iconic Vietnamese noodle soup that has captivated taste buds worldwide, is an integral part of Hanoi's culinary landscape. It can be found on every street corner and in every alleyway, enticing locals and visitors alike with its aromatic broth and delicate rice noodles.

Administrator

23 November, 2024

Pho Ganh is a unique street food delicacy native to Hanoi, Vietnam. Once sold from mobile stalls that dotted the city’s streets, it is now a rare find, with only a handful of vendors still serving this traditional dish.

A nostalgic symbol of Hanoi’s rich culinary heritage, Pho Ganh is more than just a meal; it’s an experience. The late writer Thach Lam, renowned for his works celebrating Hanoi’s specialties, described Pho as a “special Hanoi nosh.” While it may not be unique to the city, he asserted that it is only truly delicious there.

The iconic Pho dish is an integral part of Hanoi’s culinary culture. Photo: Phong Trinh

Hanoi offers a plethora of Pho restaurants, each with its unique take on this beloved dish. From Pho Thin to Pho Bat Dan, Ly Quoc Su, Ga Cham, and more, these establishments have built their reputation on the foundation laid by Pho Ganh.

Pho Ganh has its roots in the French colonial era. Street vendors, with two deep bamboo baskets hanging from a wooden yoke (“ganh” in Vietnamese) slung over their shoulders, would sell this delicious treat. One basket housed a cauldron of broth simmering over a charcoal stove, while the other held all the ingredients, bowls, and utensils.

Before the 1980s, these vendors were a common sight on every street corner in Hanoi. Some even became popular stalls, attracting customers without having to move around. Pho was often enjoyed as a late-night snack, and vendors would start hawking their wares once the streets were lit up and quiet, their voices carrying through the dark alleys.

Traditional Pho Ganh stalls, like this one on Hang Chieu, were once a common sight in Hanoi. Photo: Hung Nguyen

Pho Ganh vendors usually didn’t have a fixed location or sign. They would set up on a street corner, among their baskets, and offer a simple menu due to limited containers. Diners could choose from Pho Chin (noodle soup with well-done beef), Pho Tai (with undercooked beef), or Pho Sot Vang (noodles with beef braised in red wine sauce).

The broth in Pho Ganh is a delicate blend of beef bones and traditional spices like star anise, coriander, cinnamon, peanut worms, and black cardamom. The rice noodles are flat and soft, and the meat is carefully selected for its freshness and flavor.

A steaming bowl of Pho Ganh is a culinary delight, combining fragrant broth, tender meat, and slightly chewy noodles. It is often served with fried breadsticks and seasoned with lime juice, vinegar, or chili. Iced tea is the typical beverage of choice to accompany this hearty dish.

Pho Ganh: A signature dish of Hanoi. Photo: Luong Nguyen

Diners of Pho Ganh would often stand while eating, holding the hot bowl of noodles in one hand and using chopsticks in the other. Later, wooden and then plastic stools were introduced, and customers would sit in cramped spaces, chatting while waiting for their turn.

Pho Ganh stalls come alive in the quiet of the night, with groups of diners talking, laughing, and slurping their noodles. The customers are a diverse bunch, from early risers preparing for the day to night owls finishing their shift or groups of young friends hanging out past midnight. They are all united by their love for this aromatic dish.

According to Trinh Phong, a resident of Cua Nam Ward, a bowl of Pho is only as good as its broth and meat. Pho Ganh excels in both regards, offering a satisfying and flavorful experience that goes beyond mere nourishment. It evokes a sense of nostalgia, transporting diners back to the Hanoi of decades past.

A Pho Ganh stall in Hanoi in simpler times.

Today, the traditional Pho Ganh vendor is a rare sight, replaced by modern restaurants with large signs, comfortable seating, and a wide array of drinks. The preparation of the broth has also evolved, with the use of MSG and pre-made spice blends becoming common.

While some restaurants still uphold the Pho Ganh tradition, they are few and far between, and even they may not stay open past midnight or occupy the sidewalks as their predecessors did. Hanoians fondly remember the old-fashioned vendors and stalls, occasionally finding them in the Old Quarter or other pockets of the city.

Perhaps the allure of Pho Ganh lies in its ability to transport diners to a different time and place. Savoring a warm bowl of noodles on a chilly night, surrounded by the hum of conversation and the glow of dim streetlights, is an experience that modern restaurants struggle to replicate.

For many generations of Hanoians, Pho Ganh evokes memories of a slower, more peaceful time. It is a cultural treasure that preserves the soul of this elegant capital, ensuring that it is not forgotten.